CHAPTER 1 - JULY 2, 2011

As our plane descended, the mid-day sun reflected upon the Thamalakane River creating a snake-like configuration on the distant horizon. To the west, the river was quickly swallowed by a vast expanse of water, the first portions of which were dotted by a multitude of islands, their only inhabitant’s stands of lush palm trees and vegetation that thrive on the rich aqua liquid in this transitional desert area. Undoubtedly, a treasure-trove of wildlife also shared this paradise, but remained unseen with the naked eye at this distance. Equally illuminated by the mid-day sun, the collective surface of the water marked the eastern boundary of what many call the eighth wonder of the world, the Okavango Delta. Fed by the heavy rains of central Africa, the Okavango is the world’s largest inland delta, and eventually dissipates into the rugged and harsh Kalahari desert of Botswana, Namibia and South Africa.

Banking eastward, the sprawling town of Maun, Botswana came into view. Largely situated along the river, the first view of Maun reveals an eclectic mix of native huts and modern buildings, all dissected by what appears to be a random system of roads and the ever present tentacles of waterways which connect to the Thamalakane and the massive Delta beyond. The plane rolled to a smooth stop marking the end of the laborious itinerary from the states. Fortunately, the lengthy trip was interrupted by a brief, but pleasant, stay with friends in the North West Province of South Africa.

Arrival at Maun. The Spartan airport was simple and easy to navigate.

Moving through passport control and customs, it became apparent that I was the only passenger transporting a firearm. The majority of travelers appeared to be heading to photographic lodges which are prolific throughout the Delta. Only one week prior, United States First Lady, Michelle O’Bama, walked through the same passage as she and her two girls vacationed at a safari lodge in the Delta. The Customs representatives were friendly, and relatively efficient at completing all of the gun permits and paperwork required to export guns into Botswana. Of course, the process was manual and required the tedious completion of several multi-ply forms – a sure sign you are in Africa.

Meeting us at the door was Ian Newmarch, my Professional Hunter for the next ten days, and Rusty Symth, a South African PH who was serving as Camp Manager of the Mokolwane Camp where I would be hunting. Both young men were very professional and quickly organized our baggage and gun case into their vehicles. The trip to camp would take one and one-half hours, the first portion on macadam roadways, and the last half on the sandy and sometimes treacherous rural roads that would lead us to the village of Sankuyo. Arrival in safari camp is always much anticipated. It marks the beginning of a grand adventure and also marks the completion of the long difficult period of travel usually required to reach remote locations.

The town limit of Sankuyo on the main highway.

Our arrival was unique as the 17-member staff met us at the camp entrance and sang a song of welcome to their new visitors. Despite our inability to understand the words, the soft melody was enhanced by the beauty of the Setswana language making us feel readily welcome at our new home. Within minutes, we were ushered to our tents and settled in for what will surely be an exciting stay.

Life in camp becomes the center of any safari, and the crackling campfire becomes the primary place to warm your cold, tired bones as well as to rehash the events of the day. It was quickly obvious that Mokolwane maintained all these necessary qualities of a first-rate camp. As there is no electric, power to the camp is provided by solar chargers and generators, if needed. Oil lamps light the camp pathways at night, and candles are commonly used to provide a warm, soft glow inside one’s tent. To combat the cold of the winter season, hot water bottles are slid underneath the bed sheets before the heavy duvet is at last pulled up.

Of course, this is wild Africa, and not a night passes that one enjoys the laugh of the hyena, the cough of the leopard, or the sharp cackle of the Nightjar. For the first-timer, the night sounds of Africa are often amplified, and range the emotion spectrum from intrigue to sheer terror. However, these emotions are usually short-lived, and one quickly embraces the symphony of night in Africa as the last comforting, relaxing, audible memories of consciousness.

The campfire is the center of all safaris. It is a special place to relax and reminisce about the activities of the day. Without exception, all days start at the campfire for morning tea or coffee, and end at the campfire well after dark, serenaded by the wildlife and the unabated beauty of the southern hemisphere.

Dinner was served at 8:00. Soup for starters, followed by potatoes, butternut squash and beef, finished with a classic desert, Malva pudding. Withstanding the affects of long days on the elephant trail, it is unlikely that anyone will loose weight on safari. The food is always first-rate, portions beyond generous and always welcome after a long day in the bush. When at last the chairs were pushed back from the table, a final caucus occurred around the camp fire where sips on hot coffee and tea interrupted the exciting discussion of the forthcoming hunt. As it was winter in the southern hemisphere, the conversation also centered on the unseasonably cold temperatures experienced in Botswana over the last several weeks. As a northeasterner, temperatures in the 40’s usually don’t create much excitement, but facing these temperatures, and perhaps less, in a tent with no heat for the night ahead made for jovial conversation.

The vast canopy of the southern hemisphere, uninterrupted by any artificial light, revealed a cacophony of stars and orbital bodies. Most notable was Crux, the Southern Cross, which will point any star-gazer directionally south. Also shinning brightly in the universe was Orion, the hunter, and Canis Major, Orion’s hunting dog, a symbolic harbinger of the adventure ahead. One never tires of looking at the beauty and complexity of the heavens, especially from Africa during the dark of the moon. Finally, with visions of large elephants dancing in our dreams, we headed to bed, content on the travels of the day, but with wide anticipation of the trails ahead.